Sites visited

Basgo

Shey

Leh

Rammed earth sites

India

North Spain

South Spain

India

I have recently returned from a short visit to Ladakh in northern India. Ladakh is close to the Tibetean and to the Pakistan border, and there are a large number of Buddhist monastaries in the region. The kingdom of Ladakh was only opened to the rest of the world in 1974, but it has quickly become a popular tourist destination, in spite of its proximity to the disputed India - Pakistan border. Ladakh was a major stopping point on the Silk Road and in addition to the monastaries, there are also a number of fortifications in the region.

I have not yet undertaken an analysis of architectural history of the region, but it quickly became apparent that the Buddhist monastaries are constructed of laced timber and stone, with adobe above, whereas the fortifications are constructed in rammed earth. Below is a small sample of the rammed earth observed during a short visit to Ladakh in November 2006.

The earliest rammed earth found in Ladakh are the palace of Basgo and Shey, capitals of Upper and Lower Ladakh before 1357. The Muslim conquest of Kashmir and Central Asia led to Ladakh being surrounded by Muslim states, and Ladakh was subjected to numerous raids from around 1420.

This led to the complete destruction of many of the valley monastery, which may have been constructed in rammed earth. The Upper and Lower kingdoms were brought together by the foundation of the Namgyal dynasty, which had its capital at Leh. The Namgyal dynasty acted to repel sporadic attacks by Muslim forces based in Kashmir, and in 1550 a rammed earth fortress was built over looking Leh by Tshe-wang Namgymal. Tshe-wang Namgyal was a very competent ruler and extended his rule eastward to Mustang and westwards to Baltistan and Chitral.

Basgo fort, Ladakh

Watchtower, Basgo fort, Ladakh

Shey palace, Ladakh

This led to the complete destruction of many of the valley monastery, which may have been constructed in rammed earth. The Upper and Lower kingdoms were brought together by the foundation of the Namgyal dynasty, which had its capital at Leh. The Namgyal dynasty acted to repel sporadic attacks by Muslim forces based in Kashmir, and in 1550 a rammed earth fortress was built over looking Leh by Tshe-wang Namgymal. Tshe-wang Namgyal was a very competent ruler and extended his rule eastward to Mustang and westwards to Baltistan and Chitral.

Watchtower, Leh, Ladakh

Nangmal Tsempo, Leh, Ladakh

Nangmal Tsempo, Leh, Ladakh